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From Varanasi we traveled to Khajuraho - a tiny town literally in the middle of nowhere, involving a 12-hour train to Satna, followed by a very uncomfortable 5-hour bus ride. Khajuraho is famous for the large number of well-preserved temples, most dating from the 900-1100 AD. While the architecture and sculpture of these temples is unsurpassed, Khajuraho has really become a tourist trap - you can't walk down the street for 15 seconds without being accosted by someone trying to sell you something or take you in a rickshaw. Also, most of the temples are no longer in use, so they lack the activity and fascination of active temples like those in Madurai. Only go to Khajuraho if you are a serious temple buff (good thing we are).